Trane Heat Pump Repair and Replacement in Myrtle Beach and Charleston, SC
Invest in efficient cooling & heating for your home
Serving the Grand Strand and the Lowcountry since 1947. SC Mechanical Contractor #M111694. NATE-certified and licensed technicians. Call 843-238-3838.
Call 843-238-3838
A heat pump is the heating and cooling system in one box that most coastal South Carolina homes run on. When it fails, the fault is usually in a part the cooling side never uses: the reversing valve that flips the system between heating and cooling, the defrost board that clears winter frost off the outdoor coil, or the backup heat strips in the air handler. Repairs on those parts commonly run $200 to $700. A full replacement for a typical home usually lands between $7,500 and $15,000 installed. If your system is past twelve years, uses R-410A, and needs a compressor or a refrigerant leak repair, replacement is usually the better math.
Those are market ranges, not a quote. Every home is sized and priced on its own.
One System for Year-Round Comfort
Call 843-305-5728
We handle heat pump repair and replacement from Conway and Myrtle Beach down through Georgetown, and across the Charleston metro from Mount Pleasant to Summerville. Same technicians, same standard, whichever side of the service area you are on. Creating Lasting Relationships is harder to do across two markets than one, which is why we staff both instead of running a single crew thin.
Call 843-305-5728 for a free consultation and quote.
The Strand’s Heat Pump Experts
Heat Pumps are Perfect for Year-Round Comfort
Maintaining the ideal temperature in your coastal home doesn’t have to break the bank. Homeowners typically
spend around $1,900 annually on energy, with heating and cooling accounting for a significant portion. A heat pump, ideally selected for the coastal climate, your home, and your family's lifestyle, can make a substantial difference.
The benefits are twofold, especially for those of us living along the coast. They offer effective heating in winter and cooling in summer, ensuring comfort throughout the year. Investing in a heat pump does more than save money; it guarantees a comfortable home in the unique South Carolina coastal climate.
What does heat pump repair cost in coastal South Carolina?
- Short Answer: Most heat pump repairs fall between $150 and $1,500 depending on the part. Electrical parts sit at the low end, the reversing valve and refrigerant work in the middle, and a compressor at the top.
These are 2026 market ranges for the region, not a Coastal Air Plus quote. Your price depends on the system, the part, and access.
Financing is available on new systems through
our financing options. Once a system is in, our
VIP Maintenance Club keeps the filters and coils clean and the warranty intact.
| Heat Pump Repair Near You | Typical market range |
|---|---|
| Service call and diagnostic | $95 - $169 |
| Capacitor or contactor | $120 - $250 |
| Thermostat replacement | $100 - $425 |
| Defrost control board | $200 - $500 |
| Reversing valve | $400 - $700 |
| Blower or condenser fan motor | $200 - $1,500 |
| Refrigerant leak repair and recharge | $450 - $1,500 |
| Compressor | $750 - $4,500 |
One note on refrigerant. Adding refrigerant without finding the leak is not a repair; it is a payment plan for the same problem. We will tell you where the leak is and how much it will cost to fix before you decide. Homes on a VIP Maintenance Club plan tend to catch a slow leak while it is still small.
What does a new heat pump cost, and what rebates are available in 2026?
Short Answer: A replacement heat pump for a typical home runs about $7,500 to $15,000 installed in 2026. South Carolina utility rebates of $300 to $650 are available depending on your electric provider and the efficiency of the system you choose..
Equipment prices moved up roughly 8 to 10 percent with the switch to the new A2L refrigerants, and that premium is now simply the market price rather than a surcharge anyone should be adding on top of a bid. Size, efficiency tier, and whether your ductwork or electrical panel needs work drive the rest of the spread. If the efficiency numbers on a proposal are not making sense, our guide to SEER2 ratings explained walks through what they actually mean for a South Carolina home, and we offer financing options so a replacement does not have to land all at once.
The federal side changed. The Section 25C energy efficient home improvement credit was terminated for installations after December 31, 2025, so a 2026 heat pump install does not qualify for it. South Carolina's HEAR and HOMES rebate programs are funded but have not opened for applications. The utility rebates below are the incentives that are actually live right now.
| Provider | Rebate | Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| Santee Cooper (Grand Strand) | $300 or $400 per installed split system | $300 at 15.2 SEER2 / 7.8 HSPF2, $400 at 16.2 SEER2 / 8.0 HSPF2. Must be installed by a Santee Cooper Trade Ally. Program year ends November 30, 2026. |
| Santee Cooper (mini-split) | $40 or $80 per half ton | $40 at 15.3 SEER2 / 7.8 HSPF2, $80 at 18.4 SEER2 / 8.7 HSPF2. |
| Dominion Energy SC (Lowcountry) | $400 to $500 | ENERGY STAR qualified replacement, currently 15.2 SEER2 minimum. Licensed mechanical contractor required. Apply within 90 days. |
| Dominion Energy SC | $650 | Replacing an all-electric furnace with an ENERGY STAR qualified heat pump. |
Which utility serves your address determines which rebate applies, and the line does not follow city limits everywhere on the Grand Strand. We check it before we quote. Mini-split rebates run through our ductless mini split service, which is a separate conversation for garages, additions, and rooms the ductwork never reached.
If your heat pump is not heating, call 843-305-5728 or request service online and we will get a technician out to look at it. Peak weeks in summer and the first hard cold snap of winter run longer than we would like, and we will tell you honestly where you sit in the queue rather than promise a window we cannot hold. Straight answers before anyone quotes you anything have been the way this company has worked since 1947. Simple. Reliable.
Why is my heat pump blowing cold air when the heat is on?
Short answer. Cold air in heating mode usually points to a stuck reversing valve, a failed defrost control, or backup heat strips that are not engaging. A heat pump also runs cooler air than a furnace by design, so lukewarm air at the vent is not always a fault.
A furnace burns fuel and blows air in the 120 to 140 degree range. A heat pump moves heat instead of making it, so supply air in the 90s is normal and can feel cool against your skin. That surprises a lot of folks who moved here from a furnace market.
When the air really is cold, the usual causes are mechanical. The reversing valve is the part that flips refrigerant flow so the system heats instead of cools, and when it sticks, the unit keeps running in cooling while your thermostat asks for heat. A failed defrost control board leaves the outdoor coil packed in frost until the system can no longer pull heat from the air. Electric backup heat strips that have burned out or lost a contactor leave you with nothing on the coldest mornings, which is when you notice.
The symptom you feel is rarely the part that failed, which is why we test rather than guess. Our technicians would rather fix it right the first time than come back out in February.
Why does my heat pump ice up in winter?
Short answer. Light frost on the outdoor coil in cold, damp weather is normal, and the defrost cycle clears it every 30 to 90 minutes. A unit encased in solid ice, or one that never defrosts, has a real fault and should be shut off and looked at.
Coastal winters here are mild but wet, and that humidity is what puts frost on the coil. The system is built for it. A defrost cycle runs the unit briefly in reverse, warms the outdoor coil, melts the frost, and returns to heating. You may see steam and hear the unit change pitch. That is the system working.
What is not normal is a block of ice around the whole outdoor unit, ice that survives a full day, or a unit that runs constantly and never cycles. Those point to a failed defrost board or sensor, a stuck reversing valve, or low refrigerant. Running a heat pump hard in that condition risks the compressor, which is the expensive part.
Should I repair or replace my heat pump?
Short answer. Replace when the repair costs more than a third of a new system, when the unit is past twelve years, or when the failed part is the compressor or a refrigerant leak in an older R-410A system. Repair when the unit is under ten years and the fault is electrical.
Here is the honest version of a question every contractor gets asked, and the one most of them answer with a sales pitch.
Age is the first filter. Heat pumps in coastal South Carolina typically run 10 to 15 years, and salt air near the water shortens that. A system at eight years with a bad capacitor is worth fixing without much debate. A system at fifteen years with a failing compressor is not.
The second filter is the part. Capacitors, contactors, boards, and motors are ordinary repairs. Compressors and sealed-system refrigerant leaks are the two failures that usually tip an older system into replacement, because the part cost plus labor starts to approach a meaningful share of a new install.
The third filter is refrigerant, and it is new since 2025. Manufacturing of R-410A systems ended January 1, 2025, and new equipment now ships with R-32 or R-454B. The refrigerant in an older system gets more expensive each year as supply shrinks, and R-454B cannot be dropped into an R-410A unit. If your unit is old and leaking, that trajectory belongs in the math.
We lay out the pros, the cons, and the money, and then it is your call. We are not trying to make the most on one visit, we would rather treat them right for the long term and have you call us in ten years.
How long do heat pumps last near the coast?
Short answer. Ten to fifteen years is the working range in coastal South Carolina, and homes within a few miles of the water sit at the shorter end. Salt air attacks the outdoor coil, the copper, and the electrical connections.
A heat pump here works harder than the same unit inland. It cools through a long humid summer and heats through winter, so it accumulates operating hours year round instead of resting half the year. Your HVAC system is like your car that way, except this one never gets parked. Add salt to the air and the outdoor unit ages on two fronts at once.
Rinsing the outdoor coil with fresh water on a regular schedule does more for a coastal heat pump than almost anything else a homeowner can do. Professional service catches the rest: a weak capacitor before it strands you, a refrigerant charge drifting off spec, a defrost sensor reading wrong. Our heat pump maintenance checklist covers what you can handle yourself and what needs a meter on it.
What happens on a heat pump service call?
Our technicians are not paid to be fast. They are trained to be right, and there is a difference in outcome you feel about three winters later.
- A full diagnostic on the system, not just the symptom you called about.
- Testing on both modes, heating and cooling, because the reversing valve and defrost circuit only show a fault in one of them.
- A look at the ductwork, the air handler, and the backup heat strips, since a heating complaint often starts somewhere other than the outdoor unit.
- The findings explained in plain language, with the repair options and the costs, before any work starts.
We install and service all major brands, plus Mitsubishi for ductless applications. If a repair makes better sense than a replacement, that is what we will tell you. Not better - just different is how we think about most of our competitors, but on this one point we will plant a flag: nobody here is on commission to sell you a system.
Call 843-305-5728 for a free consultation and quote.

How an Air-Source HEat Pump Works
Cool for Summer, Warm For Winter
Adding a heat pump to your South Carolina home's current ductwork can significantly reduce energy costs. You can rely on it exclusively for year-round comfort!
They efficiently transfer heat by leveraging the temperature differences outdoors, unlike conventional systems that rely on fuel combustion.
With regular maintenance, this method enables well-maintained heat pumps to provide up to three times more heating and cooling than the electricity they use!


Trusted by Hundreds in Myrtle Beach and Charleston
Heat Pump Frequently Asked Questions
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How to stop HVAC salt air corrosion?
The Coastal Air Plus Answer: You can’t stop the ocean, but you can keep it off your equipment. If you live within 5 miles of the beach, salt is literally "pitting" your metal coils. Use a garden hose on low pressure to rinse the outdoor unit every 2–4 weeks.
If you’re shopping for a new unit, ask us about "Seacoast Protection" or epoxy-coated coils—it’s the only way to make a system last more than 5 years in the Myrtle Beach environment.
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What is emergency heat and when should I use it?
Emergency heat bypasses the heat pump entirely and runs on the electric backup strips alone. It is meant for one situation: the heat pump itself has failed. It costs considerably more to run than normal heating, so it is a bridge until a technician gets there, not a winter setting. If you are reaching for it regularly, something is wrong with the system.
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Can my R-410A heat pump still be repaired in 2026?
Yes. Manufacturing of new R-410A systems ended January 1, 2025, but existing systems can still be serviced and recharged with R-410A. The EPA also lifted the installation deadline that would have blocked remaining R-410A inventory. What is changing is cost: R-410A gets more expensive as supply shrinks, which matters if your system leaks repeatedly.
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Is a heat pump maintenance service plan worth it?
In Myrtle Beach and Charleston, absolutely. Unlike the North, our systems don't have an "off-season." In the Spring, we’re cleaning out the thick yellow pine pollen that chokes your airflow.
In the Fall, we’re checking the defrost board because our damp, 30°F nights will freeze a neglected unit into a block of ice. Skipping service here usually leads to a $500 emergency call in the middle of a July heatwave.
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Why is my heat pump aux heat on so much?
You’re likely falling into the "SC Thermostat Trap." When you nudge the temp up by more than 2 degrees at once, the system thinks it’s an emergency and kicks on the electric heat strips. These use a massive amount of power and spike your bill.
To save money, stop "adjusting" the temp. Pick a comfortable number, lock it in, and let your heat pump work slow and steady without triggering the expensive backup.
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How Do Residential Heat Pumps Work?
In the winter, a heat pump works like a heater, extracting heat energy from the outside and transferring it inside. In the summer, the process reverses, removing heat from your home and transferring it outside like an air conditioner. Heat pumps do this so well that many people in warmer climates exclusively rely on them for year-round comfort. Those living in colder climates use electric-powered heat pumps with their gas or oil furnaces, resulting in lower heating costs.
They work with coils drawing energy from air, water, or the ground. In this way, they are environmentally friendly and the most energy-efficient way to heat and cool your home. Heat pumps also work exceptionally efficiently because they simply transfer heat rather than burn fuel to create it. This efficiency makes heat pumps a greener alternative to traditional gas or oil furnaces. Though you may be unfamiliar with them, they traditionally heat swimming pools and hot tubs, so you most likely have come in contact with them and not even know it.
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Why does my heat pump smell like something burning when the heat first comes on?
Usually dust. The electric backup heat strips sit unused all summer and collect a film of it, and the first time they energize in the fall that film burns off. The smell should fade within an hour or two of running and should not return. What is not normal is a sharp plastic or electrical odor, a burning smell that persists past the first day, or any smell alongside a breaker that trips. Shut the system off and call rather than waiting that one out.
Schedule an annual duct cleaning to avoid dust buildup and accumulation.
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Why does my AC smell like dirty socks?
That’s "Dirty Sock Syndrome," and it’s a huge problem in our 90% humidity. It’s caused by bacteria growing on your indoor coils because they never fully dry out in the Lowcountry air. Don't just spray Febreze; you need a professional coil cleaning.
To keep the funk away permanently, we recommend a UV-C germicidal light installation to zap the bacteria before the smell starts.
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What Are the Different Types of Heat Pumps?
There are three types of heat pumps:
- air-to-air,
- water source, and
- geothermal.
As mentioned above, they collect their heat from the air, water, and outside your home and concentrate it for use.
Call Coastal Air Plus to discuss the basic differences between these types and which one would work best for you and your home.
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How to fix a leaky AC air handler?
The Coastal Air Plus Answer: Your drain line is likely clogged with "Lowcountry Algae." The high humidity creates a constant flow of water that turns household dust into a thick, snot-like slime.
The DIY Fix: Find the PVC access point near your indoor unit and pour 1 cup of white vinegar down it once a month. It dissolves the slime before it can back up and ruin your ceiling. If it’s already leaking, give us a call to clear the line safely.
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Do I need a furnace as backup with a heat pump in South Carolina?
In most coastal South Carolina homes, no. Standard air source heat pumps hold full heating capacity down to roughly 35 to 40 degrees, and below that the electric backup heat strips in the air handler carry the load. That threshold is rarely crossed here for long. A gas furnace paired with a heat pump, called a dual fuel system, makes sense mainly where gas service already exists and winter bills justify it. We break the comparison down in heat pump vs furnace in South Carolina.
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Are Heat Pumps Expensive?
Heat pump installation costs are higher than with a traditional furnace or air conditioner. Still, the savings over time in annual energy costs
- Heat pump installation costs make up for the difference in five to ten years. Performing proper operation and maintenance of your heat pump will also save you money, as you’ll use less energy, thus resulting in less cost.
- Ask your HVAC professional for the proper thermostat setting and the indoor pump’s fan operation. Not following the recommended guidelines can inhibit the maximized running of the pump and can degrade the unit itself.
- Regular maintenance can prevent degradation as well. Consistent filter changing or cleaning is necessary for a well-running heat pump.
- Seasonal cleaning of coils and fans goes a long way in preventing poor energy efficiency that can end up costing you more money. The energy difference between a well-maintained system and a neglected one can be pump's maximized running and 10 to 25 percent.
To determine the appropriate type of heat pump for you (which can depend upon the geography and climate around your Surfside Beach, Myrtle Beach, Conway, Charleston, SC, or surrounding home or office space) or to discuss your options, call us today or request service online for an evaluation.
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Will a new heat pump actually lower my power bill?
If you are replacing electric resistance heat, the difference is substantial. The Department of Energy puts the reduction in heating electricity at roughly 50 percent versus electric furnaces and baseboard heat. If you are replacing a working heat pump from 2012 with a new high-efficiency one, the savings are real but more modest, and the honest answer is that it depends on your usage and your rate.
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What does ENERGY STAR® qualified mean?
- ENERGY STAR is program developed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in order to reduce the nation's energy consumption.
- ENERGY STAR® -qualified heating equipment can be up to 15 percent more efficient than standard models. ENERGY STAR® -qualified cooling equipment can be up to 7 percent more efficient than minimum-standard equipment.




